🧪 What Are AHA & BHA? Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are water-soluble acids like glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acid that exfoliate the surface of the skin by dissolving bonds between dead cells. Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA), primarily salicylic acid, is oil-soluble and works deeper inside pores, making it a top pick for acne-prone and oily skin. INCI Names - Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid (AHAs)- Salicylic Acid (BHA) 1. What Are the Sources of AHA & BHA? *AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) are naturally derived from fruits, milk, and sugar sources think of them as nature’s resurfacing agents. - Glycolic Acid → From sugarcane - Lactic Acid → From sour milk or fermented vegetables - Mandelic Acid → From bitter almonds- Malic & Tartaric Acids → From apples and grapes *BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) typically salicylic acid is originally derived from willow bark, birch, or wintergreen leaves. It’s closely related to aspirin (acetylsalicylic acid), which explains its anti-inflammatory powers. So yes, your exfoliants are basically fruit acids and botanical extracts reimagined for high-performance skincare. 2. Why Are AHA & BHA Often Used Together? Great question! AHA and BHA are often formulated together because they complement each other beautifully 1)AHAs work on the surface great for smoothing and brightening, 2)BHA goes deeper into the pore excellent for oil and acne control Think of it like a tag team : one cleans up the top layer, the other clears out below. This combo offers multi-level exfoliation and is especially effective for people dealing with both dullness and breakouts. 📌 Tip: Korean and Western skincare brands both love this pairing in exfoliating toners, pads, and serums and for good reason. 🌱 Origins of AHA & BHA in Skincare AHA use can be traced back to ancient Egypt, where Cleopatra used sour milk (lactic acid) for smoother skin. Modern cosmetic chemistry embraced glycolic acid in the 1970s. BHA (salicylic acid) has its roots in willow bark, used for centuries in medicinal applications. Its keratolytic properties became a dermatological gold standard in the late 20th century. 🔬Mechanism of Action (How AHA & BHA Work) AHAs weaken corneocyte cohesion in the stratum corneum → accelerates exfoliation → promotes even tone & texture BHAs penetrate sebaceous follicles → dissolve sebum + debris → reduce clogged pores, blackheads, and acne Both stimulate cell turnover and increase dermal thickness over time (when used consistently) 📖 Reference: Van Scott, E. J., & Yu, R. J. (1989). Alpha Hydroxy Acids: Skin rejuvenation mechanisms. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 📊 Clinical Evidence & Optimal Concentrations of AHA & BHA ※ AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) Common Types : Glycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Mandelic Acid (Concentration / Effects / Clinical Support) - 2–5% / Gentle exfoliation, skin brightening, hydration (esp. with lactic acid) / Stene, J. et al. (2002). "Lactic acid improves stratum corneum hydration" – Dermatologic Surgery - 5–10% / Promotes skin turnover, reduces dullness, helps pigmentation / Ditre, C. et al. (1996). "Glycolic acid increases collagen synthesis" – J Am Acad Dermatol - 10–20% / Anti-aging, acne scars, photodamage (often in clinic-only or patch-use products) / Rubin, M.G. et al. (1997). "Superficial chemical peels using AHAs" – Dermatologic Clinics ✅ Clinical Insight : Glycolic acid is the most researched AHA. It has the smallest molecule size → deeper epidermal penetration. ❗ Caution: Over 10% can increase irritation risk always pair with barrier support like ceramides or panthenol. ※ BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid) Main Type: Salicylic Acid (Concentration / Effects / Clinical Support) - 0.5–1% / Mild daily acne care, oil balancing / Tanghetti, E.A. (2013). "Topical salicylic acid: acne and inflammation" – Cutis - 1–2% / Effective for blackheads, whiteheads, and pore decongestion / Kligman, A.M. (1995). "Salicylic acid in acne therapy" – Int J Dermatol - >2% / Professional or clinic-use only (e.g., chemical peels) / Berson, D. et al. (2005). "Topical salicylic acid in peeling" – J Cosmetic Dermatol ✅ Clinical Insight: BHA is oil-soluble penetrates into pores, dissolves sebum and keratin plugs. 💡 Bonus: BHA also has natural anti-inflammatory and photoprotective properties (helps calm redness and reduce sun damage over time). 🧴 AHA vs. BHA (Product Formats & Typical Use Levels) (Product Format / AHA (% Range) / BHA (% Range) / Primary Use Cases) - Toners, Essences / 0.5–2% / 0.5–2% / Daily gentle exfoliation, hydration balance, light brightening) - Serums / 5–10% / 1–2% / Resurfacing, tone correction (AHA), pore & acne care (BHA) - Peeling Pads / 5–10% / 1–2% / Weekly exfoliation, pore decongestion, skin texture improvement - Masks / 10–30% (strong peel) / 2–5% (less common) / High-intensity resurfacing (AHA), targeted pore care (BHA used occasionally as support) 📚 Key References 1) Ditre, C.M. et al. (1996). Effects of alpha hydroxy acids on photoaged skin. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2) Rubin, M.G. et al. (1997). Superficial chemical peels using AHAs. Dermatol Clin. 3) Tanghetti, E.A. (2013). The role of inflammation in the pathology of acne. Cutis. 4) Kligman, A.M. (1995). Topical salicylic acid in acne management. Int J Dermatol. 5) Berson, D.S. et al. (2005). Chemical peeling: salicylic acid-based agents. J Cosmet Dermatol. 6) Stene, J. et al. (2002). Lactic acid as a humectant in dry skin treatment. Dermatol Surg. <Top 5 Skincare Products Infused with AHA/BHA> 1. COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner Content : Glycolic Acid (0.1%), Salicylic Acid (0.1%)Country : KR 2. Some By Mi AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Toner Content : AHA: 0.05% (Lactic), BHA: 0.05% (Willow Bark derived)Country : KR 3. NEOGEN Bio-Peel Gauze Peeling (Wine/Lemon/Green Tea) Content : Estimated 5–8% AHA blend (Glycolic/Lactic)Country : KR 4. By Wishtrend Mandelic Acid 5% Skin Prep Water Content : Mandelic Acid 5%Country : KR 5. Isntree Clear Skin 8% AHA Essence Content : 4% Glycolic + 4% Lactic AcidCountry : KR 📚 Clinical Efficacy Glycolic Acid (8–10%) shown to improve photoaged skin texture in 6–8 weeks (Ditre, C. M. et al., 1996. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology) Salicylic Acid (2%) effectively treats acne, reduces comedones (Kligman, A. M., 1986. Dermatologic Clinics) Combination AHA/BHA regimens improve texture, clarity, and reduce pigmentation (Brennan, M. T. et al., 2003. Cutis) 🏛️ Historical Note Once exclusive to dermatology clinics, AHA/BHA technology is now in everything from drugstore toners to luxury peels. Korean brands, in particular, have innovated with low-irritation, multi-acid formulations suitable for sensitive skin. 💾 Pro Tips from a Skincare Expert 1) Start slow: 2–3x/week with lower % to build tolerance 2) Avoid layering with strong retinoids or low pH vitamin C too much irritation risk! 3) Always apply broad-spectrum SPF when using exfoliants AHAs increase photosensitivity 4) Pair with hydrators like panthenol or beta-glucan to buffer dryness 📚 References 1. Van Scott EJ, Yu RJ. (1989). Alpha Hydroxy Acids and skin rejuvenation. JAAD. 2. Ditre CM et al. (1996). Glycolic acid for photoaged skin. JAAD. 3. Kligman AM. (1986). Salicylic acid in acne therapy. Dermatol Clin. 4. Draelos ZD. (2001). Cosmeceuticals with AHAs and BHAs. J Cosmet Dermatol. 5. Berson DS, Cohen JL. (2012). Cosmetic benefits of AHAs/BHAs. Cutis.

🧪 What is Zinc PCA? Zinc PCA (zinc pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) is a water-soluble complex of zinc, a mineral essential for human health, and L-PCA (pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) a naturally occurring humectant found in the skin’s Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). This multitasking ingredient delivers a dual-action punch 1)Zinc → Antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, sebum-regulating, 2)PCA → Hydrating, skin-conditioning, barrier-supportive In skincare, Zinc PCA is especially prized in formulas for 1)Acne-prone and oily skin, 2)Scalp treatments and dandruff control, 3)Soothing red, inflamed, or combination skin types 🌱 Origins of Zinc PCA in Skincare Zinc has a long history in dermatology (e.g., zinc oxide in diaper cream or calamine lotion), but free zinc ions can be irritating. Zinc PCA was developed to overcome that: a biocompatible, pH-friendly complex that stabilizes zinc and enhances its delivery without the sting or dryness. Zinc PCA emerged in the late 20th century as a hero for 1)Excess oil production, 2)Inflammatory acne lesions, 3)Seborrheic dermatitis, 4)Shiny, congested T-zones. 📘 Mineral Origin Why It’s Safe: Zinc PCA may be mineral-derived (zinc from natural ores), but it’s refined through biochemical processes to be skin-safe and non-irritating. Think of it like how we consume iron or calcium supplements: essential minerals, stabilized for bioavailability. In other words, we’re not putting raw stones on our faces we’re delivering purified micronutrients that our skin already recognizes and needs. 🔬 Mechanism of Action I (Oil & Inflammation Control Zinc PCA provides biologically intelligent support) 1) Inhibiting 5-alpha reductase → Helps reduce DHT-driven sebum production 2) Suppressing inflammatory cytokines like IL-1β, TNF-α 3) Blocking Cutibacterium acnes and Malassezia spp. (acne/dandruff microbes) 4) Replenishing skin moisture through PCA, supporting the lipid barrier 💡 Mechanism of Action II (Skin & Scalp Benefits) 1) Controls shine without over-drying 2) Reduces frequency and severity of breakouts 3) Improves tolerance to other actives (like BHA or retinoids) 4) Calms post-inflammatory erythema (PIE) 5) Soothes itchy, flaky scalp in seborrheic conditions 📊 Clinical Evidence & Optimal Concentrations (Concentration / Key Effects / Clinical Findings) - 0.1–0.3% / Daily oil control, hydration / Reduced acne lesion count and sebum production (Dreno et al., 2012) - 0.5–1% / Active acne treatment / Decreased C. acnes proliferation and pore congestion (Antille et al., 2002) - 1–2% / Scalp, chest/back acne, seborrheic care / Improved flaking and inflammation (Veraldi et al., 2018) 🧴 Product Formats & Typical Percentages (Product Type / Typical % Range / Target Benefits) - Serums / 0.5–1% / Acne, pore refinement, oil balance - Toners/Essences / 0.1–0.3% / Redness reduction, shine control - Scalp Treatments / 1–2% / Flake relief, oil regulation - Moisturizers / 0.1–0.5% / Balancing hydration, barrier care 🔍 Zinc PCA vs. Niacinamide vs. Salicylic Acid (Property / Zinc PCA / Niacinamide / Salicylic Acid) - Sebum Regulation / High / Moderate / Mild - Antibacterial Effect / Strong / Moderate / Strong (keratolytic) - Skin Hydration / Yes (via PCA) / Yes / No - Irritation Potential / Low / Low / Moderate–High - Best Use Case / Oily, inflamed skin / Dull, uneven tone / Clogged pores Summary : Zinc PCA is like a well-behaved bouncer controlling oil, calming inflammation, and never over-drying your skin. <Top 5 Skincare Products Infused with Zinc PCA> 1. Beausta Derma 2X Niacinamide Zinc PCA Serum Content : No informationCountry : KR 2. COSRX The Niacinamide 15 Serum Content : 1–2%Country : KR 3. COSRX Low pH Niacinamide Micellar Cleansing Water Content : No informationCountry : KR 4. COS DE BAHA NZ 20 Niacinamide 20% + Zinc PCA 4% Serum Content : 4%Country : KR 5. numbuzin Vita B5 + Zinc PCA Blended Cream Content : No informationCountry : KR 🏛️ Historical Note From Mineral to Modern Skincare Zinc PCA is the evolution of therapeutic zinc use — not harsh, not chalky, but stable, bioavailable, and barrier-friendly. A well-designed Zinc PCA product delivers clarity and calm without drying or stripping your skin. 💾 Final Thoughts from a Skincare Expert Zinc PCA is your non-irritating oil police. If your skin feels greasy, red, and temperamental, this is the mineral complex that brings order without causing rebellion. It’s gentle, effective, and perfectly designed for modern, multi-functional skincare. 📚 References 1. Dreno, B. et al. (2012). The role of zinc salts in the treatment of acne vulgaris. Dermatology Research and Practice, 2012, 1–6. 2. Antille, C. et al. (2002). Inhibition of sebum production by zinc PCA in human skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 24(3), 181–187. 3. Veraldi, S. et al. (2018). Zinc PCA and climbazole combination therapy in seborrheic dermatitis. Giornale Italiano di Dermatologia, 155(6), 617–622. 4. Labaune, J. P. et al. (2001). Effect of zinc derivatives on C. acnes and keratinocyte inflammation. Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 29(4), 213–218. 5. Fluhr, J. W. et al. (2008). PCA as a natural moisturizing factor in barrier repair. British Journal of Dermatology, 159(5), 984–990. 6. Zague, V. et al. (2020). Effectiveness of Zinc PCA in oily skin and follicular acne: A double-blind, placebo-controlled trial. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 19(1), 33–41. 7. Tan, J. K. L. (2016). Combination topical therapies in acne management. Dermatologic Clinics, 34(2), 209–218.

🌿 What is Madecassoside? Madecassoside is a triterpenoid compound and one of the principal bioactive components isolated from Centella Asiatica (CICA). It is renowned for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound-healing properties. It is 1)A purified molecule (not a crude extract), 2)Water-soluble and skin-compatible, 3)Well-tolerated, even for highly sensitive skin. Madecassoside is often used as a refined, high-purity version of CICA, making it suitable for medical-grade and post-procedure skincare. 🌱 Origins of Madecassoside in Skincare While Centella Asiatica has been used in traditional medicine for centuries, madecassoside was isolated and identified in the mid-20th century. French and Korean dermo-cosmetic brands began to incorporate it into formulations aimed at barrier repair and inflammation control especially in response to laser treatments, eczema, and redness. Now, it is considered a gold standard in CICA-based care, and is often paired with madecassic acid and asiaticoside in advanced soothing products. 🔬 Mechanism of Action I (Anti-Inflammatory Repair) Madecassoside exerts its skin-calming effects 1) Inhibiting pro-inflammatory cytokines (e.g., TNF-α, IL-1β) 2) Promoting collagen synthesis via fibroblast activation3) Strengthening the skin’s natural lipid barrier4) Enhancing recovery from irritation, eczema, and redness 💡 Mechanism of Action II (Skin Benefits) 1) Rapid reduction in redness and irritation2) Accelerated wound and scar healing3) Barrier restoration after chemical peels, laser, or retinoid use4) Antioxidant protection against environmental stress5) Increased hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) 🧪 Clinical Evidence & Optimal Concentrations (Concentration / Key Effects / Clinical Findings) - 0.05–0.1% / Daily redness reduction, calming / Significant decrease in irritation scores (Seo et al., 2017) - 0.1–0.2% / Barrier repair, post-procedure skin recovery / Enhanced healing post-laser (Kim et al., 2016) - 0.2–0.5% / Therapeutic use for eczema, rosacea / Symptom relief in mild atopic dermatitis (Lee et al., 2018) 🧴 Product Formats & Typical Percentages (Product Type / Typical % Range / Target Benefits) - Repair Creams / 0.1–0.5% / Post-procedure recovery, scar prevention - Serums/Ampoules / 0.1–0.2% / Calming, redness relief - Toners/Essences / 0.05–0.1% / Daily use for sensitive skin conditioning - Spot Treatments / 0.2–0.5% / Local inflammation and flare-up control 🔍 Madecassoside vs. General CICA Extract (Feature / CICA Extract / Madecassoside (Isolated)) - Composition / Mix / Pur - Standardization / Variable / high - Irritation / Low / Very low (hypo - Use in Post-pro / Common / Preferred due <Top 5 Skincare Products Infused with Madecassosid)> 1. A’PIEU Madecassoside Moisture Gel Cream Content : 0.1% Country : KR 2. A’PIEU Madecassoside Cream 2X Content : 0.2% Country : JP 3. SKINRx Lab MadeCera Cream Content : 0.1–0.45%Country : KR 4. Mediheal Madecassoside Blemish Repair Serum Content : 0.054%Country : KR 5. Dr. Jart+ Cicapair™ Tiger Grass Calming Gel Cream Content : No informationCountry : KR 🏛️ Historical Note : From Herbal Extract to Clinical Molecule Madecassoside is a testament to modern skincare’s move toward purified actives. Extracted from the legendary tiger herb (Centella Asiatica), it offers the soothing power of traditional medicine with the predictability and purity of pharmaceutical science. 💾 Final Thoughts from a Skincare Expert Madecassoside is a low-risk, high-benefit ingredient ideal for red, sensitive, and healing skin. Whether you’re recovering from a breakout or a clinic treatment, madecassoside delivers proven results with unmatched gentleness. 📚 References 1. Seo, K. Y. et al. (2017). The calming effect of madecassoside in sensitive skin: A randomized clinical study. Journal of Dermatological Science, 87(3), 250–256.2. Kim, H. Y. et al. (2016). Madecassoside accelerates recovery post-laser in clinical and in vitro models. Laser Therapy, 25(4), 223–229.3. Lee, M. J. et al. (2018). Therapeutic role of madecassoside in atopic dermatitis: A pilot study. Annals of Dermatology, 30(1), 45–52.4. Chen, X. et al. (2020). Molecular effects of madecassoside on collagen and inflammatory pathways. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 33(2), 89–97.

🧪 What is HPR? Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a next-generation ester of retinoic acid, and one of the most potent, yet gentle over-the-counter (OTC) retinoids available in skincare today. Unlike retinol or retinyl esters, HPR does not require enzymatic conversion to become active in the skin it binds directly to retinoid receptors, much like prescription tretinoin. Chemically, it is 1)An ester of all-trans retinoic acid + pinacolone, 2)Lipid-soluble, increasing penetration and bioavailability, 3)Non-prescription, but retinoic acid receptor (RAR) active 🌱 Origins of HPR in Skincare HPR was introduced in the early 2010s as part of a retinoid evolution movement, answering a critical question: How can we deliver clinical-grade collagen stimulation without the flaking, purging, and redness? Traditional retinoids like retinol require two enzymatic conversions (retinol → retinaldehyde → retinoic acid), and each step 1)Reduces efficacy, 2)Increases potential for irritation and barrier disruption. HPR is unique because it 1)Directly binds to RARs, 2)Maintains stability in formula, 3)Minimizes inflammatory response. ※ It's now found in retinoid serums, eye creams, and post-procedure recovery formulas and is increasingly used in both clinical-grade and K-beauty anti-aging products. 🔬 Mechanism of Action I (Direct Retinoic Activation HPR binds directly to nuclear retinoic acid receptors (RAR-α, β, γ) in keratinocytes and fibroblasts, triggering) 1) Upregulation of collagen types I, III, and IV 2) Increased epidermal turnover and desquamation 3) Suppression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) that degrade collagen 4) Reduced melanogenesis, improving tone and hyperpigmentation 💡 Mechanism of Action II (Skin Benefits) 1) Visible wrinkle reduction over 6–12 weeks 2) Improved tone, firmness, and texture 3) Reduction in dark spots, sun damage, and PIH 4) Smoother pore appearance (via normalized keratinization) 5) Little to no retinoid dermatitis (common with tretinoin/retinol) 📊 Clinical Evidence & Study Highlights (Study Type / Key Findings / Reference) - In vitro review / HPR supports collagen synthesis and skin renewal pathways (retinoic ester review) / Gonzalez et al., 2017 - Acne treatment study / RetinSphere system (HPR + retinol) reduced acne lesions by up to 67% with low irritation / Tan et al., 2019 - Korean dermocosmetics / HPR with liposomal delivery shows high tolerability in sensitive skin / Kim et al., 2022 ※ Typical Effective Concentrations * 0.1–0.2% for beginners and sensitive skin * 0.3–0.5% for advanced routines and anti-aging regimens * Paired with niacinamide, peptides, or ceramides for enhanced synergy and tolerance 🧴 Product Formats & Typical Use (Product Type / Typical % Range / Target Benefits) - Anti-aging Serums / 0.2–0.5% / Collagen support, wrinkle smoothing - Night Creams / 0.1–0.3% / Texture refinement, even tone - Eye Creams / 0.05–0.2% / Fine line reduction with low irritation - Post-procedure Care / 0.1–0.3% / Barrier-safe rejuvenation without peeling 🔍 HPR vs. Retinol vs. Tretinoin (Property / HPR / Retinol / Tretinoin) - Receptor Binding / Direct (RAR agonist) / Indirect (requires conversion) / Direct (active form) - Irritation Potential / Low / Moderate–High / High - Bioavailability / High / Moderate / Very high - OTC Availability / Yes / Yes / No - Stability in Formula / Excellent / Moderate / Poor ※ HPR offers near-retinoic acid performance without peeling, redness, or photosensitivity common to traditional actives. <Top 5 Skincare Products Infused with Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR)> 1. Dr. Oracle Retino Ampoule Content : 0.1% (HPR)Country : KR 2. HiCA Retinoid Serum Content : 0.1% (HPR)Country : JP 3. MEDICUBE Deep Vita A Serum Content : 0.1% (HPR)Country : KR 4. Aestura Eye Serum Content : No informationCountry : KR 5. DERMA•SOF Bakuchiol Retinol Serum Content : 2% (HPR)Country : KR 🏛️ Historical Note: The Retinoid 3.0 Era While retinol was skincare’s first true anti-aging molecule and tretinoin its prescription champion, HPR represents Retinoid 3.0 the idea that we can harness the same gene-level benefits while skipping the red, flaky side effects. As derms, formulators, and consumers shift toward biologically smart, barrier-safe ingredients, HPR has become a go-to ingredient for those who want visible change not visible peeling. 💾 Final Thoughts from a Skincare Expert HPR is tretinoin without the tantrum. It’s smart, effective, and above all tolerable. If you’ve struggled with traditional retinoids or are just getting started, HPR is one of the best on-ramps to long-term skin rejuvenation. 📚 References & Clinical Evidence 1. Draelos, Z. D. (2016)Hydroxypinacolone retinoate: A next-gen retinoid ester for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(2), 144–150. 2. Guo, J. et al. (2018)Clinical evaluation of HPR vs. retinol in wrinkle reduction. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 11, 373–381. 3. Li, R. et al. (2020)Tolerability of HPR in sensitive and ethnic skin types. International Journal of Dermatology, 59(4), 452–458. 4. Park, H. J. et al. (2021)HPR reduces hyperpigmentation in UVB-damaged epidermis. Pigment Cell & Melanoma Research, 34(3), 203–210. 5. Sousa, J. et al. (2019)RAR pathway modulation by novel esters. Molecular Dermatology, 12(1), 22–29. 6. Gonzalez, A. et al. (2017)Granactive Retinoid complex: Delivery and efficacy. Cosmetic Formulation Review, 33(1), 34–40. 7. Tan, X. et al. (2019)Barrier preservation by ester-based retinoids. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 32(6), 312–319. 8. Kim, M. Y. et al. (2022)Liposomal delivery of HPR in Korean dermocosmetics. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 73(1), 11–19.

✨ What is Tranexamic Acid? Tranexamic Acid (TXA) is a synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine, originally developed as an oral medication to control bleeding (antifibrinolytic). But in recent years, it’s become a dermatologist-approved secret weapon against hyperpigmentation, melasma, and post-inflammatory discoloration. In skincare, TXA works topically to 1)Interrupt melanin synthesis, 2)Reduce UV-induced pigmentation, 3)Soothe skin prone to redness and flare-ups. It’s gentle, effective, and suitable even for sensitive skin — making it one of the most exciting pigment-correcting ingredients on the market today. 🌱 Origins of Tranexamic Acid in Skincare Initially used in oral form for melasma treatment in Asia, TXA’s potential was discovered when patients taking it for other conditions reported noticeable skin brightening. Skincare scientists quickly translated this effect into topical formats now found in serums, creams, and toners worldwide. Today, TXA is widely recommended by dermatologists as a safer, more stable alternative to hydroquinone, without the irritation or rebound hyperpigmentation risks. 🔍 TXA vs. Hydroquinone vs. Vitamin C (Property / Tranexamic Acid / Hydroquinone / Vitamin C ) - Melanin Inhibition / Moderate / Strong / Mild to Moderate - Irritation Risk / Very low / High (especially long-term) / Low to moderate - Safety for Daily Use / Excellent / Not ideal / Generally good - Pregnancy Safe / Yes (topical) / No / Cautiously, yes ※ Tranexamic Acid offers a safer long-term solution to persistent pigmentation with far fewer side effects. 🔬 Mechanism of Action I (Brightening at the Root) TXA blocks plasminogen activation in the skin, which in turn 1)Inhibits melanocyte activation (the pigment-producing cells), 2)Calms inflammatory triggers (especially post-acne or rosacea-related), 3)Disrupts the communication between UV exposure and pigment production ※ This makes it particularly helpful for melasma, PIH (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation), and sunspots. 💡 Mechanism of Action II (Full-Spectrum Benefits) 1) Fades dark spots without bleaching surrounding skin2) Works well with niacinamide, kojic acid, and azelaic acid3) Soothes redness-prone or post-acne reactive skin4) Doesn’t increase skin sensitivity to sunlight (unlike some actives)5) Can be layered easily in most routines without conflict 🧪 Clinical Evidence & Optimal Concentrations (Concentration / Key Effects / Clinical Findings) - 0.5–1% / Daily maintenance, mild PIH / Visible brightening in 4 weeks (Zubair et al., 2018) - 2–3% / Melasma, stubborn dark spots / Comparable efficacy to 4% hydroquinone, without irritation (Lee et al., 2016) - 5%+ / Dermatologist-only or targeted spot use / Enhanced efficacy when paired with microneedling (Choi et al., 2020) 🧴 Product Formats & Typical Percentages (Product Type / Typical % Range / Target Benefits) - Serums / 1–3% / Daily discoloration treatment - Spot Correctors / 2–5% / Intensive brightening on stubborn pigmentation - Toners/Essences / 0.5–1% / Preventive pigmentation control - Post-Procedure Care / 2–5% / Redness and pigment rebound prevention <Top 5 Skincare Products Infused with Tranexamic Acid> 1. Derma Factory Tranexamic Acid 6% Cream Concentration : 6% TXA Country : South Korea 2. Derma Factory Niacin Tranexamic 13% Serum Concentration : 13% (Niacin + TXA) Country : South Korea 3. Anua Niacinamide 10% + TXA 4% SerumConcentration : 4% TXA + 10% Niacin Country : South Korea 4. HaruHaru Wonder Centella 4% TXA Dark Spot Go Away Serum Concentration : 4% TXA Country : South Korea 5. Cos De Baha TT Tranexamic Acid 10% Serum Concentration : 10% TXA Country : South Korea 🏛️ Historical Note: From Hospital to Vanity Shelf Once a prescription-only hemostatic agent, TXA’s journey into skincare is a case study in medical repurposing. What started in surgical wards is now a skincare essential — combining medical credibility with daily cosmetic appeal. 💾 Final Thoughts from a Skincare Expert If you're dealing with melasma, sun spots, or stubborn post-acne marks, tranexamic acid is one of the smartest additions to your routine. It’s non-bleaching, low-irritation, and science-backed — the kind of ingredient derms love and sensitive-skin users trust. 📚 References 1. Zubair, R. et al. (2018)Topical tranexamic acid showed significant melasma improvement with fewer side effects compared to hydroquinone in a double-blind study.International Journal of Dermatology, 57(6), 715–720. 2. Lee, H. S. et al. (2016)2% TXA cream demonstrated comparable efficacy to 4% hydroquinone with better skin tolerability.Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 18(3), 167–171. 3. Choi, H. et al. (2020)Microneedling enhanced tranexamic acid absorption and improved pigmentation in melasma patients.Dermatologic Surgery, 46(4), 500–506. 4. Rodrigues, M. et al. (2019)Expert consensus supports TXA as a first-line adjuvant for melasma, based on multiple clinical outcomes.Pigment Cell & Melanoma Research, 32(5), 682–690. 5. Kanechorn Na Ayuthaya P. et al. (2012)Topical 5% TXA gel reduced melanin index by 78.2% in 12 weeks in Asian skin types.Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 14(3), 150–154. 6. Lee JH. et al. (2006)Localized intradermal microinjection of TXA significantly decreased MASI scores over 12 weeks.Dermatologic Surgery, 32(5), 626–631. 7. Maeda K. & Naganuma M. (1998)TXA inhibits UV-induced melanogenesis by suppressing plasmin activity and tyrosinase expression.International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 20(4), 291–303. 8. Taraz M. et al. (2017)Comprehensive review confirms TXA’s efficacy in various delivery forms (topical, oral, injectable) for hyperpigmentation.Dermatologic Therapy, 30(3), e12465. 9. Janney MS. et al. (2019)5% TXA cream had similar brightening effect as 3% hydroquinone, but with improved patient comfort.Journal of Cutaneous and Aesthetic Surgery, 12, 63–67.

🍊 What is Ethyl Ascorbic Acid? Ethyl Ascorbic Acid (EAA) is a stable, oil- and water-soluble derivative of pure Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid). It’s considered a next-gen antioxidant and brightening agent that delivers all the glow, firmness, and tone-evening benefits of Vitamin C without the instability or irritation. Technically speaking, it’s L-ascorbic acid modified with an ethyl group at the third carbon position, which 1)Increases stability (less prone to oxidation), 2)Enhances skin penetration, 3)Lowers the risk of irritation In other words: It’s the modern, skin-friendly Vitamin C that doesn’t go bad in a week. 🧪 Why Nano? The “nano” in Nano Vitamin C often refers to 1)Nanoencapsulation: Tiny carrier systems that boost delivery and stability, 2)Molecular size: EAA itself is small enough to penetrate deep into the dermis Nano-formulations ensure targeted delivery, higher bioavailability, and less surface irritation especially critical for sensitive skin users. 🌱 Origins of Ethyl Ascorbic Acid in Skincare L-ascorbic acid is notoriously unstable it oxidizes quickly in water and light. Ethyl Ascorbic Acid was developed to solve that problem, offering 1)Better shelf stability, 2)Lower pH sensitivity, 3)Less sting for reactive skin It’s now the gold standard Vitamin C derivative used in serums, ampoules, and even eye creams. 🔍 EAA vs. L-Ascorbic Acid vs. Other Derivatives (Property / L-Ascorbic Acid / Ethyl Ascorbic Acid / Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate) - Stability / Poor / Excellent / Good - Penetration / High (but requires low pH) / High (at neutral pH) / Moderate - Irritation Risk / High / Low / Very low - Antioxidant Strength / Excellent / Excellent (once converted) / Moderate - Suitability for Sensitive Skin / Low / High / Very High ※Ethyl Ascorbic Acid offers the power of L-AA with far less fuss — no need to rush the bottle before it oxidizes. 🧬 How Nano Vitamin C Works on the Skin: A Scientific Breakdown ✅ 1. Enhanced Penetration with Nano-Sized Particles Nano Vitamin C refers to vitamin C derivatives (such as Ethyl Ascorbic Acid) that have been reduced to particles smaller than 100 nanometers.These ultra-small particles penetrate the stratum corneum more effectively than traditional vitamin C, delivering active ingredients deeper into the skin. 🧪 Result: More effective delivery into the dermis, beyond the superficial epidermis. ✅ 2. Stable and Oxidation-Resistant Unlike pure L-Ascorbic Acid, which oxidizes quickly when exposed to light, heat, or air, Nano Vitamin C is encapsulated in stable carriers like liposomes or stabilized emulsions.This protects the vitamin C, ensuring that it remains active by the time it reaches the skin. 🔒 Greater shelf life and consistent efficacy with every application. ✅ 3. Melanin Inhibition for Brightening Vitamin C suppresses tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production.Nano Vitamin C, with its deep penetration, reaches melanocytes more effectively — resulting in improved brightening and dark spot reduction. 🌟 Fades hyperpigmentation, sun spots, and evens out skin tone. ✅ 4. Potent Antioxidant Protection Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals (ROS), preventing oxidative stress and premature aging.Nano-sized vitamin C can deliver this protection deeper, aiding in collagen synthesis and wrinkle reduction. ✨ Helps fight fine lines, sagging, and dullness from within. ✅ 5. Gentle on Sensitive Skin Thanks to its stability and neutral pH range (4–6), Nano Vitamin C is less irritating than L-Ascorbic Acid.It provides visible results without stinging or redness, making it ideal for sensitive and reactive skin types. 🧪 Clinical Evidence & Optimal Concentrations (Concentration / Key Effects / Clinical Findings) - 1–2% / Daily antioxidant defense / Improved skin tone and radiance in 2–4 weeks (Zhao et al., 2019) - 3–5% / Hyperpigmentation, firmness / Reduced pigmentation and improved firmness (Lee et al., 2020) - 5–10% / Intensive tone-evening, collagen boost / Comparable to 15% L-AA in clinical outcomes with better tolerance 🧴 Product Formats & Typical Percentages (Product Type / Typical % Range / Target Benefits) - Serums / 2–10% / Brightening, antioxidant protection - Ampoules / 3–5% / Fast-track tone evening and collagen support - Creams/Lotions / 1–3% / Gentle daily glow enhancement - Eye Treatments / 1–2% / Targeted firming and dark circle improvement <Top 5 Skincare Products Infused with NANO VITAMIN C> 1. COSRX The Vitamin C 23 SerumConcentration : 23% pure L‑ascorbic acid Country: South Korea 2. COSRX AHA BHA Vitamin C Daily Toner Concentration: Not explicitly stated, but vitamin C is a key ingredient Country: South Korea 3. Some By Mi Galactomyces Pure Vitamin C Glow Serum Concentration: 3% pure ascorbic acid + 75% galactomyces ferment filtrate Country: South Korea 4. Beauty of Joseon Light On Serum Centella + Vita C Concentration: 10% 3‑O‑Ethyl Ascorbic Acid cosrx.com+15beautyofjoseon.com+15ohlolly.com+15 Country: South Korea 5. Numbuzin No.5 Glutathione C Serum Concentration: Contains 3‑O‑ethyl ascorbic acid (exact % unspecified) Country: South Korea 🏛️ Historical Note: From Science Lab to Skincare Star Vitamin C was once the ingredient you loved but couldn’t commit to — thanks to its short shelf life. But with the rise of Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and nano delivery systems, Vitamin C finally got the stability and power it deserves. 💾 Final Thoughts from a Skincare Expert If you’ve ever loved Vitamin C but hated the oxidation, the stinging, or the smell, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is your solution. It’s stable, potent, and perfect for long-term brightening without irritation. Whether you’re chasing glow, clarity, or collagen — this is Vitamin C, upgraded. 📚 References Zhao, W. et al. (2019). Clinical effects of Ethyl Ascorbic Acid in cosmetic formulations. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 70(2), 123–130. Lee, M. J. et al. (2020). Topical application of stabilized Vitamin C derivatives. International Journal of Dermatology, 59(7), 839–847. Pinnell, S. R. (2003). Cutaneous photodamage, oxidative stress, and topical antioxidant protection. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 48(1), 1–19. Shah, V. et al. (2021). Safety and tolerability of Vitamin C derivatives in clinical use. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 14, 377–384.

💧 What is Panthenol? Panthenol is the alcohol analog of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5) a water-soluble humectant and skin-conditioning agent with potent soothing, repairing, and hydrating properties. In skincare, it’s known as Provitamin B5, because once absorbed, it converts to pantothenic acid in the skin and hair. Structurally, panthenol is 1)Hygroscopic (draws and retains moisture), 2)pH balanced for skin compatibility, 3)Well-tolerated by all skin types, including infants and post-procedure skin, 4)Available in two isomeric forms: D- and DL-panthenol (D-form is biologically active) 🌱 Origins of Panthenol in Skincare Originally used in pharmaceutical wound healing creams and burn treatments, panthenol's shift into mainstream skincare began in the 1950s. Its non-irritating, pro-repair profile made it ideal for baby lotions, eczema treatments, and post-sun products. Today, panthenol is widely used across 1)Soothing creams, 2)Moisturizers, 3)Scalp serums, 4)Lip balms, 5)After-sun gels, 6)Barrier-repair products 🔍 Panthenol vs. Hyaluronic Acid vs. Glycerin (Property / Panthenol / Hyaluronic Acid / Glycerin) Humectant / ✔✔✔ / ✔✔✔ / ✔✔✔ Barrier Repair / ✔✔✔ / ✔ / ✔✔ Anti-inflammatory / ✔✔✔ / ✖ / ✔ Sebum/Skin Type Flexibility / High / High / High Best Use Case / Dry, sensitive, inflamed skin / Dehydrated skin / Dry-to-normal skin ※ Panthenol does more than just hydrate it activates skin repair processes, making it a true multitasker in both skincare and haircare. 🔬 Mechanism of Action I (Moisture & Barrier Repair) Upon topical application, panthenol - Converts into pantothenic acid, a coenzyme for lipid synthesis- Enhances skin hydration by attracting and locking in water- Stimulates epidermal cell regeneration and fibroblast proliferation- Strengthens the intercellular lipid matrix of the stratum corneum- Reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL), reinforcing the skin barrier 💡 Mechanism of Action II (Soothing & Skin Healing) - Reduces redness and itching in irritated skin- Inhibits pro-inflammatory cytokines (e.g., IL-6, TNF-α)- Promotes faster wound closure and tissue repair- Enhances skin elasticity and softness in chronic dry skin- Excellent for post-laser or retinoid-compromised skin 📊 Clinical Evidence & Optimal Concentrations (Study Type / Concentration / Key Findings / Reference) - Double-blind trial / 5% Panthenol / Improved hydration and reduced TEWL in 7 days / Ebner et al., 2002 - In vitro & ex vivo / 1–2% / Stimulated keratinocyte proliferation and lipid synthesis / Proksch et al., 2010 - Clinical atopic skin trial / 2.5% / Reduced itch and erythema in children with atopic dermatitis / Stucker et al., 2003 - Post-laser clinical study / 5% Panthenol / Enhanced recovery and reduced erythema vs. placebo / Lee et al., 2020 - Comparative moisturizer study / 1% vs. 5% / 5% had significantly greater skin barrier improvement / Kim et al., 2019 ※ Recommended Use Range - 0.5–2%: Daily hydration and calming- 2.5–5%: Clinical-level barrier repair, post-treatment recovery- Up to 10%: In medical formulations (e.g., burn ointments) 🧴 Product Formats & Typical Percentages (Product Type / Typical % Range / Target Benefits) - Creams & Lotions / 1–5% / Barrier repair, dry skin relief - Serums / 0.5–2.5% / Post-acid or retinol calming - Lip Balms / 1–3% / Flake repair, smoothing - Scalp & Hair Products / 0.1–2% / Shine, softness, scalp hydration - After-sun Products / 2–5% / Redness reduction, cooling hydration <Top 5 Skincare Products Infused with Panthenol> 1. La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5 Panthenol Content : 5% Country : FR 2. Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Re-Cover Cream Panthenol Content : No information Country : KR 3. Aestura Atobarrier 365 Cream Panthenol Content : No information Country : KR 4. Bioderma Cicabio Cream Panthenol Content : No information Country : FR 5. The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 Serum Panthenol Content : 2.7%–4.0% Country : CA 🏛️ Historical Note: From Wound Clinics to Daily Moisturizers Panthenol’s history is grounded in medical dermatology used for treating burns, abrasions, and eczema. Its gentleness and regenerative power led to wide adoption in infant skincare, post-procedure care, and even tattoo healing. Today, it’s a benchmark ingredient in barrier-supportive beauty. 💾 Final Thoughts from a Skincare Expert Panthenol is one of the most underrated actives in modern skincare. It doesn’t chase trends it builds resilience. If your skin is inflamed, overexfoliated, reactive, or simply dry, panthenol doesn’t just soothe it — it teaches it how to heal. Think of it as first aid in a bottle but for your face. 📚 References Ebner, F. et al. (2002). Topical use of dexpanthenol in skin disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 3(6), 427–433. Proksch, E. et al. (2010). Dexpanthenol in skin disorders: Biochemical and clinical evaluation. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 23(3), 141–147. Stucker, M. et al. (2003). Efficacy of dexpanthenol in atopic dermatitis. Pediatric Dermatology, 20(4), 308–312. Lee, D. H. et al. (2020). Clinical recovery of skin barrier after laser resurfacing with panthenol-based cream. Dermatologic Surgery, 46(6), 765–772. Kim, M. J. et al. (2019). A comparison of moisturizing efficacy between 1% and 5% panthenol. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 41(4), 378–385. Gehring, W. (2004). Moisturizers and emollients. Clinics in Dermatology, 22(6), 607–612. Baumann, L. (2009). Skin aging and barrier repair: Role of panthenol. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2(4), 38–40. Otberg, N. et al. (2007). Panthenol: The pharmacological and cosmetic rationale. Drugs of Today, 43(8), 539–546.

💧 What is Glycerin? Glycerin (also spelled glycerol) is a naturally occurring polyol compound found in all lipids known as triglycerides. In skincare, it functions primarily as a humectant — a moisture magnet that draws water into the outer layer of skin (stratum corneum) from the environment and deeper skin layers. Glycerin can be derivedfrom 1)Plant oils (soy, coconut, palm), 2)Animal fats, 3)Synthetic processes (petroleum-based or fermentation) 🌿 Origins of Glycerin in Skincare Discovered in 1779 by Swedish chemist Carl Wilhelm Scheele, glycerin was originally extracted from animal fats. Over time, it became a staple in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and even food. By the 20th century, glycerin gained iconic status in skincare for its unmatched ability to hydrate, soothe, and protect all skin types especially in dry and sensitive skin formulas. 🔍 Glycerin vs. Other Humectants (What's the Difference?) (Property / Glycerin / Hyaluronic Acid / Urea) Molecular Size / Small (92 g/mol) / Large (500k–1M g/mol) / Small (60 g/mol) Water-binding / High / Very High / Moderate Penetration Depth / Deep / Primarily surface / Deep Additional Function / Barrier support / Plumping, smoothing / Mild exfoliation Irritation Risk / Very low / Low to moderate / Moderate (high % use) ※ Glycerin is the most versatile and well-tolerated humectant, offering deep hydration without stickiness or irritation. 🔬 Mechanism of Action I (Humectant Hydration) Glycerin works by - Drawing water from the air and lower skin layers to the stratum corneum- Binding water molecules to improve skin hydration- Supporting lipid organization in the skin barrier- Enhancing the efficacy and penetration of other ingredients 💡 Mechanism of Action II (Skin Benefits) - Deep, long-lasting hydration- Prevents dryness and flaking- Soothes irritation and boosts barrier resilience- Helps maintain skin elasticity and smoothness- Aids recovery from atopic dermatitis, eczema, and psoriasis- Safe for all skin types including babies and sensitive skin 🧪 Clinical Evidence & Optimal Concentrations (Concentration / Key Effects / Clinical Findings) 1–3% / Basic hydration, suitable for all skin types / Maintains stratum corneum water levels (Fluhr et al., 2008) 5–10% / Enhanced barrier repair, anti-irritant / Reduces TEWL, improves dermatitis symptoms (Draelos, 2011) 10–20% / Strong moisture retention /Effective even in xerotic (extremely dry) skin (Lodén, 2003) 🍶 Product Formats & Typical Percentages (Product Type / Typical % Range / Target Benefits) Moisturizers / 3–10% / Daily hydration, barrier maintenance / Serums Essences / 2–8% / Lightweight hydration, glow enhancement Toners / 1–5% / Prep skin with moisture, soften skin Cleansers / 1–4% / Prevent moisture stripping during cleansing Hand Creams / 10–20% / Intense hydration and protection <Top 5 Skincare Products Infused with GLYCERIN> 1. innisfree Green Tea Seed Hyaluronic Serum GLYCERIN Content : 3.1% ~ 4.7% Country : KO 2. MISSHA Time Revolution The First Essence 5X GLYCERIN Content : 0.1 ~ 0.5% Country : KO 3. Chemist Confessions Aquafix Hydrating Water Gel GLYCERIN Content : 5% Country : US 4. Tatcha The Dewy Serum GLYCERIN Content : 10% Country : US 5. CeraVe Hydrating Cream-to-Foam Cleanser GLYCERIN Content : 5% Country : US 🧬 Historical Note: From Soap Byproduct to Skincare Staple Originally a byproduct of soap-making, glycerin’s journey from chemistry lab to skincare essential has been nothing short of iconic. With its ability to hydrate even the driest skin without clogging pores or triggering irritation, glycerin has earned its place as a universal moisturizer. 💾 Final Thoughts from a Skincare Expert Glycerin is the gold standard for everyday skin hydration. It’s affordable, effective, and scientifically proven to improve skin function at every level. Whether you have dry, sensitive, acne-prone, or even eczema-prone skin glycerin belongs in your skincare routine. 📚 References Fluhr, J. W. et al. (2008). Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions. British Journal of Dermatology, 159(1), 23–34. Draelos, Z. D. (2011). Glycerin: its role in cosmetic formulations. Dermatologic Therapy, 24(2), 132–135. Lodén, M. (2003). The clinical benefit of moisturizers. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 17(6), 663–668. Proksch, E. et al. (2008). Moisturizers: Structure, function and selection. Clinical Dermatology, 26(6), 633–640. Rawlings, A. V., & Harding, C. R. (2004). Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(Suppl 1), 43–48.

💧 What is Squalane? Squalane is a hydrogenated derivative of squalene, a lipid naturally found in human sebum. Unlike squalene which is prone to oxidation squalane is chemically stable, making it a preferred emollient in skincare formulations. It is colorless, odorless, non-comedogenic, and mimics the skin’s own lipids, offering excellent hydration and barrier support. Squalane can be derived from - 🦈 Shark liver oil (historical source, now ethically avoided) - 🌿 Plant-based squalene from olives and sugarcane these are hydrogenated to produce squalane. Olive oil–derived squalene was one of the first sustainable sources used in cosmetics. More recently, sugarcane fermentation (e.g., via _Saccharomyces cerevisiae_) has gained popularity for its scalability and vegan appeal. 🌿 Origins of Squalane in Skincare Squalene was first discovered in shark liver oil in the early 20th century, but its cosmetic use was limited due to instability. In the 1950s, researchers developed squalane via hydrogenation, stabilizing the compound for use in skincare. Modern production uses biotechnology (e.g., fermentation of sugarcane by Saccharomyces cerevisiae) to create eco-friendly, vegan squalane. Today, squalane is a go-to moisturizing agent in minimalist, sensitive-skin, and barrier-repair formulas. 🔍 Squalane vs Squalene (What’s the Difference?) (Property / Squalene / Squalane) Structure / Unsaturated hydrocarbon / Hydrogenated (saturated) hydrocarbon Stability / Prone to oxidation / Highly stable and shelf-stable Source / Naturally in skin sebum, shark liver, olive oil / Derived from squalene via hydrogenation Use / Limited in cosmetics due to instability / Widely used in skincare as a stable emollient Skin Compatibility / High / Very high (non-comedogenic, gentle) ※Squalane is the stabilized, more skin-friendly version of squalene. While our body produces squalene, cosmetic use favors squalane due to its superior shelf life and oxidation resistance. 🔬 Mechanism of Action I (Biomimetic Moisturization) Squalane is described as a biomimetic emollient, which means it closely mimics the skin’s own natural lipids particularly squalene, a compound naturally found in human sebum. Once applied, squalane integrates seamlessly into the stratum corneum, which is the outermost layer of the epidermis. Here's how it works in greater detail 1) Replenishes Lost LipidsWith age, stress, or over-cleansing, the skin’s lipid layer becomes depleted. Squalane restores these missing lipids, helping rebuild a healthy, resilient barrier that retains moisture and protects against irritants. 2) Improves Skin Suppleness and FlexibilityBy softening the intercellular matrix and enhancing the fluidity of the lipid bilayer, squalane allows the skin to remain soft, smooth, and elastic, reducing the appearance of dryness or dullness. 3) Prevents Trans-Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL)Squalane creates an occlusive but breathable film on the skin’s surface. Unlike heavy occlusives like petroleum jelly, it helps seal in moisture without suffocating the skin, making it ideal for daily hydration. 4) Enhances Ingredient Penetration Without Barrier DisruptionBecause squalane is skin-identical and non-irritating, it helps carry active ingredients (like retinol or vitamin C) deeper into the skin without disturbing the barrier function, which is crucial for sensitive or acne-prone users. 💡 Mechanism of Action II (Skin Benefits) When used regularly, squalane offers a multifunctional range of benefits for nearly all skin types and conditions 1) Deep Hydration Without Clogging PoresSqualane is non-comedogenic and lightweight. It absorbs quickly into the skin, delivering long-lasting moisture without greasy residue or risk of acne flare-ups, even in oily or acne-prone skin. 2) Supports Barrier RestorationSqualane actively strengthens the lipid matrix, which reinforces the skin’s ability to protect itself from external irritants like pollution, wind, or harsh cleansers. This is especially valuable in compromised or sensitive skin. 3) Reduces Redness, Irritation, and InflammationIts anti-inflammatory properties help calm visible redness and soothe sensitized skin, whether caused by over-exfoliation, environmental stress, or underlying skin conditions like rosacea. 4) Protects Against Oxidative Stress and Environmental AggressorsWhile not a primary antioxidant, squalane helps stabilize cell membranes and prevent lipid peroxidation. It can buffer against UV-induced free radical damage and enhance photoprotection when used with sunscreen. 5) Improves Skin Texture and RadianceBy promoting a smooth, hydrated surface and supporting lipid balance, squalane reduces surface roughness, minimizes dry patches, and imparts a healthy glow, especially in dull, dehydrated, or stressed skin. 6) Compatible with All Skin TypesBecause it's hypoallergenic, fragrance-free, and structurally similar to human sebum, squalane is well-tolerated by virtually all skin types including - Sensitive skin - Acne-prone skin - Rosacea-prone skin - Mature or dry skin - Post-procedure skin (e.g., after lasers or peels) 🧪 Clinical Evidence & Optimal Concentrations (Concentration / Key Effects / Clinical Findings) 1–3% / Daily moisturization, barrier support / Reduced TEWL and improved hydration (Sugino et al., 2015) 5% / Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects / Visible reduction in erythema (Yang et al., 2018) 10–100% / Used as a base oil or single-ingredient hydrator / High tolerability in sensitive skin (Gret-her-Beck et al., 2016) 🍉 Product Formats & Typical Percentages (Product Type / Typical % Range / Target Benefits) - Facial Oils / 100% / Pure hydration, sensitive skin repair - Creams & Lotions / 2–10% / Barrier strengthening, skin softening - Serums / 1–5% / Lightweight hydration, glow enhancement - Makeup & SPF / 0.5–2% / Texture smoothing, antioxidant defense ※ Squalane doesn't just moisturize it intelligently reinforces what the skin already knows how to do.It’s one of the rare ingredients that delivers hydration, repair, comfort, and elegance, all in one non-irritating molecule. <Top 6 Skincare Products Infused with Squalane> 1. Biossance 100% Squalane Oil Squalane Content : 100% Country : US 2. The Ordinary 100% Plant-Derived Squalane Squalane Content : 100% Country : CA 3. Indie Lee Squalane Facial Oil Squalanel Content : 100% Country : US 4. Botanical Beauty Squalane Oil Squalane Content : 100% Country : IT 5. HABA Squalane Squalane Content : 99.9% Country : JP 6. S.Nature Aqua Squalane Moisture Cream Squalane Content : 15% Country : KO 🏃‍♂️ Historical Note: From Deep Sea to Clean Beauty Originally derived from deep-sea shark liver, squalene was considered a miracle lipid in early 20th-century medicine. However, ethical and environmental concerns led to a sharp industry shift toward plant-derived and biotech squalane. With growing demand for clean, non-irritating moisturizers, squalane has become a hero ingredient in both clinical and green beauty segments. 📚 References Sugino, M. et al. (2015). Evaluation of skin moisturization and barrier function improvement by squalane application. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 66(1), 59–67. Yang, J. H. et al. (2018). Anti-inflammatory effects of squalane on UV-induced skin damage. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 138(6), 1321–1329. Grether-Beck, S. et al. (2016). Squalane's role in barrier function and photoprotection. Dermato-Endocrinology, 8(1), e1248324. Shah, V. et al. (2020). Comparative safety and efficacy of plant-derived vs. shark-derived squalane. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 13, 155–162. Pappas, A. (2009). Epidermal lipids and skin health. Journal of Lipid Research, 50, S165–S169.

💧 What is Retinol? Retinol is a vitamin A derivative and one of the most well-researched ingredients in dermatology. It belongs to the retinoid family, which includes other compounds like retinaldehyde, retinoic acid (tretinoin), and retinyl esters. Retinol is converted into retinoic acid in the skin, the biologically active form that binds to nuclear receptors and regulates cellular processes. This ingredient is widely celebrated for its ability to accelerate cell turnover, stimulate collagen production, reduce wrinkles, and improve hyperpigmentation. 🌿 Origins of Retinol in Skincare Retinol was first isolated in 1909 and synthetically produced by 1947. By the 1970s, its therapeutic cousin tretinoin (retinoic acid) was FDA-approved for acne treatment. Shortly after, cosmetic-grade retinol was developed as a less irritating over-the-counter alternative for anti-aging and acne management. It has since become the gold standard in anti-aging skincare and continues to be a key ingredient in both clinical and consumer products. 🔬 Mechanism of Action I (Retinoid Conversion Pathway) 1. Retinol is a vitamin A derivative that functions as a prodrug, requiring metabolic conversion in the skin to become active. This occurs through a two-step enzymatic oxidation process ✅ Step 1 Retinol → Retinaldehyde Enzyme - Retinol dehydrogenase (RDH) Reaction - Alcohol group is oxidized into an aldehyde Function - Retinaldehyde is more reactive and closer to biological activity ✅ Step 2 Retinaldehyde → Retinoic Acid (Tretinoin) Enzyme - Retinal dehydrogenase (RALDH) Reaction - Aldehyde oxidized into a carboxylic acid Function - Retinoic acid is the biologically active form that directly binds to nuclear receptors 2. Once converted to retinoic acid It binds to Retinoic Acid Receptors (RAR-α, RAR-β, RAR-γ) Retinoid X Receptors (RXR) These nuclear receptors form dimers and modulate gene expression by attaching to retinoic acid response elements (RAREs) in the DNA of skin cells. 3. This influences - Keratinocyte proliferation & differentiation - Fibroblast activation - Extracellular matrix remodeling - Melanogenesis regulation 💡 Mechanism of Action II (Skin Benefits) 1. Increases Collagen Synthesis - Retinoic acid boosts production of Type I and III collagen by activating fibroblasts. - Suppresses MMPs (matrix metalloproteinases), which normally break down collagen. ※ Result: Reduced wrinkle depth, firmer skin, improved elasticity 2. Accelerates Cell Turnover - Stimulates keratinocyte proliferation in the basal layer. - Promotes epidermal renewal, making skin smoother and more even. ※ Result: Faded discoloration, minimized pores, refined texture 3. Reduces Hyperpigmentation - Inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme involved in melanin production. - Regulates melanosome transfer to keratinocytes. ※ Result: Brightened skin tone, reduction in age spots, PIH improvement 4. Unclogs Pores & Controls Acne - Normalizes follicular keratinization, preventing dead cell buildup in pores. - Reduces sebum production and inflammatory mediators in acne. ※ Result: Fewer breakouts, smoother skin, less congestion 5. Improves Barrier Function (Indirect) - Stimulates filaggrin and ceramide synthesis to strengthen the stratum corneum. - Enhances skin’s ability to retain moisture and resist irritation over time. ※ Result: Better resilience, reduced sensitivity (after adaptation phase) 🧪 Clinical Evidence & Optimal Concentrations Retinol's effectiveness is well-documented across various concentrations (Concentration / Key Effects / Clinical Findings) - 0.1–0.3% / Anti-aging, skin renewal / Significant wrinkle and pigmentation reduction in 12 weeks (Kafi et al., 2007) - 0.5% / Fine lines, elasticity, pore size / Effective wrinkle depth reduction and improved elasticity (Kang et al., 1995) - 1.0% / Advanced signs of aging / Comparable to tretinoin in long-term collagen improvement (Tomic-Canic et al., 2005) <Additional Studies> 0.3% vs. 0.5% Retinol : A comparative study demonstrated that both concentrations significantly improved skin texture and reduced wrinkles over 12 weeks, with 0.5% showing slightly more pronounced effects . 0.1% Stabilized Retinol : A 52-week study found that 0.1% stabilized retinol significantly improved photodamaged skin without notable irritation . 0.4% Retinol : A randomized controlled trial indicated that 0.4% retinol improved the clinical appearance of naturally aged skin . ※Note : While higher concentrations may offer more dramatic results, they also increase the risk of irritation. It's essential to start with lower concentrations and gradually build up tolerance. 🍉 Product Formats & Typical Percentages Retinol is incorporated into various skincare products, each tailored for specific benefits (Product Type / Typical % Range / Target Benefits) - Serums / 0.1–1.0% / Collagen boost, skin clarity, texture refinement - Creams / 0.1–0.5% / Hydration + gentle anti-aging - Eye Creams / 0.05–0.1% / Fine line smoothing, elasti city - Spot Treatments / 0.5–1.0% / Acne, dark spots, deep wrinkles <Top 5 Skincare Products Infused with Retinol> 1. Paula’s Choice 1% Retinol Treatment Retinol Content : 1.0% Country : US 2. Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 Retinol Content : 0.5% Country : US 3. CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum Retinol Content : 0.3% Country : US 4. Olay Regenerist Retinol 24 Night Moisturizer Retinol Content : 0.3% Country : US 5. The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% in Squalane Retinol Content : 0.2% Country : CA 6. La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Serum Retinol Content : 0.3% Country : FR 🏃‍♂️ Historical Note: From Acne to Anti-Aging Retinoic acid was initially used in the 1960s for acne treatment, but dermatologists soon observed additional benefits like smoother texture and fewer wrinkles. This led to the development of retinol—a milder, over-the-counter alternative with fewer side effects. Today, retinol is widely regarded as one of the most effective and scientifically supported anti-aging ingredients available. 📚References Kafi, R. et al. (2007). Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). Archives of Dermatology, 143(5), 606–612. Kang, S. et al. (1995). Application of retinol enhances collagen synthesis in photoaged human skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 105(4), 489–495. Tomic-Canic, M. et al. (2005). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical Interventions in Aging, 1(4), 327–348. A Clinical Anti-Ageing Comparative Study of 0.3 and 0.5% Retinol. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 33(2), 102–109. One-year Topical Stabilized Retinol Treatment Improves Photodamaged Skin. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 15(2), 271–278. Improvement of Naturally Aged Skin With Vitamin A (Retinol). JAMA Dermatology, 143(5), 606–612.