๐งช What is HPR?
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a next-generation ester of retinoic acid, and one of the most potent, yet gentle over-the-counter (OTC) retinoids available in skincare today. Unlike retinol or retinyl esters, HPR does not require enzymatic conversion to become active in the skin it binds directly to retinoid receptors, much like prescription tretinoin.
Chemically, it is 1)An ester of all-trans retinoic acid + pinacolone, 2)Lipid-soluble, increasing penetration and bioavailability, 3)Non-prescription, but retinoic acid receptor (RAR) active
๐ฑ Origins of HPR in Skincare
HPR was introduced in the early 2010s as part of a retinoid evolution movement, answering a critical question: How can we deliver clinical-grade collagen stimulation without the flaking, purging, and redness?
Traditional retinoids like retinol require two enzymatic conversions (retinol โ retinaldehyde โ retinoic acid), and each step 1)Reduces efficacy, 2)Increases potential for irritation and barrier disruption.
HPR is unique because it 1)Directly binds to RARs, 2)Maintains stability in formula, 3)Minimizes inflammatory response.
โป It's now found in retinoid serums, eye creams, and post-procedure recovery formulas and is increasingly used in both clinical-grade and K-beauty anti-aging products.
๐ฌ Mechanism of Action I (Direct Retinoic Activation HPR binds directly to nuclear retinoic acid receptors (RAR-ฮฑ, ฮฒ, ฮณ) in keratinocytes and fibroblasts, triggering)
1) Upregulation of collagen types I, III, and IV
2) Increased epidermal turnover and desquamation
3) Suppression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) that degrade collagen
4) Reduced melanogenesis, improving tone and hyperpigmentation
๐ก Mechanism of Action II (Skin Benefits)
1) Visible wrinkle reduction over 6โ12 weeks
2) Improved tone, firmness, and texture
3) Reduction in dark spots, sun damage, and PIH
4) Smoother pore appearance (via normalized keratinization)
5) Little to no retinoid dermatitis (common with tretinoin/retinol)
๐ Clinical Evidence & Study Highlights
(Study Type / Key Findings / Reference)
- In vitro review / HPR supports collagen synthesis and skin renewal pathways (retinoic ester review) / Gonzalez et al., 2017
- Acne treatment study / RetinSphere system (HPR + retinol) reduced acne lesions by up to 67% with low irritation / Tan et al., 2019
- Korean dermocosmetics / HPR with liposomal delivery shows high tolerability in sensitive skin / Kim et al., 2022
โป Typical Effective Concentrations
* 0.1โ0.2% for beginners and sensitive skin
* 0.3โ0.5% for advanced routines and anti-aging regimens
* Paired with niacinamide, peptides, or ceramides for enhanced synergy and tolerance
๐งด Product Formats & Typical Use
(Product Type / Typical % Range / Target Benefits)
- Anti-aging Serums / 0.2โ0.5% / Collagen support, wrinkle smoothing
- Night Creams / 0.1โ0.3% / Texture refinement, even tone
- Eye Creams / 0.05โ0.2% / Fine line reduction with low irritation
- Post-procedure Care / 0.1โ0.3% / Barrier-safe rejuvenation without peeling
๐ HPR vs. Retinol vs. Tretinoin
(Property / HPR / Retinol / Tretinoin)
- Receptor Binding / Direct (RAR agonist) / Indirect (requires conversion) / Direct (active form)
- Irritation Potential / Low / ModerateโHigh / High
- Bioavailability / High / Moderate / Very high
- OTC Availability / Yes / Yes / No
- Stability in Formula / Excellent / Moderate / Poor
โป HPR offers near-retinoic acid performance without peeling, redness, or photosensitivity common to traditional actives.
<Top 5 Skincare Products Infused with Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR)>
1. Dr. Oracle Retino Ampoule
Content : 0.1% (HPR)
Country : KR
2. HiCA Retinoid Serum
Content : 0.1% (HPR)
Country : JP
3. MEDICUBE Deep Vita A Serum
Content : 0.1% (HPR)
Country : KR
4. Aestura Eye Serum
Content : No information
Country : KR
5. DERMAโขSOF Bakuchiol Retinol Serum
Content : 2% (HPR)
Country : KR
๐๏ธ Historical Note: The Retinoid 3.0 Era While retinol was skincareโs first true anti-aging molecule and tretinoin its prescription champion, HPR represents Retinoid 3.0 the idea that we can harness the same gene-level benefits while skipping the red, flaky side effects.
As derms, formulators, and consumers shift toward biologically smart, barrier-safe ingredients, HPR has become a go-to ingredient for those who want visible change not visible peeling.
๐พ Final Thoughts from a Skincare Expert HPR is tretinoin without the tantrum. Itโs smart, effective, and above all tolerable. If youโve struggled with traditional retinoids or are just getting started, HPR is one of the best on-ramps to long-term skin rejuvenation.
๐ References & Clinical Evidence
1. Draelos, Z. D. (2016)
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate: A next-gen retinoid ester for anti-aging. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15(2), 144โ150.
2. Guo, J. et al. (2018)
Clinical evaluation of HPR vs. retinol in wrinkle reduction. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 11, 373โ381.
3. Li, R. et al. (2020)
Tolerability of HPR in sensitive and ethnic skin types. International Journal of Dermatology, 59(4), 452โ458.
4. Park, H. J. et al. (2021)
HPR reduces hyperpigmentation in UVB-damaged epidermis. Pigment Cell & Melanoma Research, 34(3), 203โ210.
5. Sousa, J. et al. (2019)
RAR pathway modulation by novel esters. Molecular Dermatology, 12(1), 22โ29.
6. Gonzalez, A. et al. (2017)
Granactive Retinoid complex: Delivery and efficacy. Cosmetic Formulation Review, 33(1), 34โ40.
7. Tan, X. et al. (2019)
Barrier preservation by ester-based retinoids. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 32(6), 312โ319.
8. Kim, M. Y. et al. (2022)
Liposomal delivery of HPR in Korean dermocosmetics. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 73(1), 11โ19.
26Comments
+ Do you mind sharing which HPR product youโre using? And how often do you apply it?
Also curious if 0.1% is enough for noticeable anti-aging or if I should aim for 0.3%+?
I have combo skin thatโs mostly tolerant but gets moody sometimes ๐
From what Iโve read and tried personally, 0.1% HPR can give some smoothing and mild brightening over time, but if youโre really targeting fine lines or texture, youโd likely want something closer to 0.3%+ if your skin can handle it. Brands like The Ordinary have options up to 1% HPR, and theyโre pretty gentle overall. Just go slow and buffer if your skin gets cranky. HPR can be deceptively strong at higher concentrations